Charlotte Ivers gushed about the quality of the £10 cabbage at Isca Wines in Levenshulme
The new restaurant critic of the Sunday Times has heaped praised on a Manchester eatery - but she felt a bit guilty as she scoffed a fantastic portion of cabbage that cost a tenner.
In her review, which admits she is 'part of the problem in gentrified Levenshulme', she writes: "It’s the cabbage, by the way. That’s how you know. If someone brings a plate of cabbage to the table and charges you ten quid for the privilege, then congratulations: you’ve been gentrified. It’s game over. The local character is going.
The small plates of grilled cabbage - of course - spiced aubergine, harissa and sunflower seeds are all praised, washed down with a bottle of orange wine, the review tells us. The butterbeans are 'fattest butterbeans you’ve ever had the privilege of meeting'.Her feelings of guilt bubble to the surface, however, as she watches her dining friend sup her after-dinner coffee, not from a mug but from a small earthenware pot.
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