Trad British sponges, inventive flavour combinations, and all manner of potential birthday cakes
A protégé of iconic British chefs like Jeremy Lee, Ruth Rogers and Margot Henderson, and now at the helm of her own restaurant, Cafe Deco’s Anna Tobias is a self-styled champion of “beige food”: a shorthand to describe food that doesn’t need to draw attention to itself or visually “wow” in order to prove its calibre.
“Puddings, more than anything, pull on people’s nostalgic heart strings”, Tobias explains, and her Black Forest gateau is a faithful rendition of a German classic, boasting a traditional, “over-the-top joyful verging on naff appearance”. The cake consists of three towering layers of chocolate sponge soaked in Kirsch and cherry liquor, filled with squashy layers of fresh cream and boozy cherries.
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