Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe was the first female silversmith to receive international acclaim. Here, we explore her life and legacy
all exemplify a return to the art of silversmithing, and in the work that each produces the legacy ofRenowned for her ‘anti-status’ pieces, the Swedish jeweller Torun – as she was known colloquially – pioneered restrained simplicity during the mid-1950s . Conversely, Bülow-Hübe, also on marriage number three at the time, was creating jewellery from hand-turned silver, pebbles and crystal.
In 1965, her marriage to Coleman broke down, and in 1967, she began working freelance with Georg Jensen, for whom she produced some of her most famous works, becoming the second most famous designer at the company behind Jensen himself. “She met the head of Georg Jensen at an award ceremony in the 1960s and it went from there,” says Manville. “She always made her own jewellery and that was very much the process here, too.
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