The 1,300km Karakoram Highway cuts through some of the most astounding rock faces on the planet. It's a road trip of dreams, yet few have ever heard of it or how it came to be.
music , playing a stringed rubab outfitted with shimmering scales; a long, thin sitar; and the, a thick, hand-held drum covered in red and green stripes. The hypnotic sounds filled the air and left me with a resounding sense of joy that the folk music of Central Hunza will prevail for a while longer.After making my way out of the cobblestoned streets of Old Altit, I drove back on the KKH toward what is arguably its most famous section: Upper Hunza, locally known as Gojal.
Despite sharing a similar culture to Central Hunza, Gojalis speak Wakhi and are believed to have migrated from the neighbouring Wakhan Corridor hundreds of years ago. Before the highway opened, it took days to travel between the two Hunza regions. Now, it was just an hour before the striking, azure-coloured Attabad Lake served as my welcome to the region.
As natural as it may seem, Attabad Lake is actually artificial, and was born from tragedy. On 4 January 2010,obliterated several villages and blocked the flow of the Hunza River, creating an artificial lake in the process.
" that were completed in 2015 and looked as if they should be in a bustling metropolis rather than one of the world's most remote regions.Yet as I drove just a few more kilometres down the road, I found the, a female-owned-and operated restaurant that was the kind of local eatery I was craving. While Pakistani food is typically very spice-heavy, spices don't go beyond mint leaves in traditional Hunza cuisine, and delicacies often include apricot oil and yak meat.
"The [making of] cultural food was almost finished. Because our kids were not making it. Nobody was making it. And then we started, and now other women have joined us, and people are coming out to eat," Sultana told me, as I sipped myI soon learned that Gojal, and particularly Gulmit, is a hub for female entrepreneurship. While only
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