Curated by Charlie Porter, a new online exhibition of Robert Mapplethorpe’s work looks into the way he deployed clothing in his photographs, often to erotic effect
and the curator of this show, suggests Mapplethorpe treated clothing like a ‘tool’ to understand his subjects better.
Perhaps Mapplethorpe’s favourite attire to picture was the combination of stiff Levi’s, grubby vest tops and leather you’d throw on to go cruising in the West Village. , from 1979, depicts an immaculately-dressed restaurant waiter at work, the coded subservience of his white tie and tails eroticised by Mapplethorpe’s gaze.in 1982, portrays his boyfriend Jack Walls undressing in a seductive show of affection. “To me, they are like a semaphore, a dance of flirtation, ”Porter says. “They show a playfulness Mapplethorpe is often not allowed to have by how his photography has historically been seen.
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