It’s one of the most magnificent cities in Europe, yet hardly anyone ever goes there. That’s about to change
The first thing in Genoa by which I was completely dazzled – but far from the last – was hidden away inside the 17th-century monastery complex of Sant’Ignazio. In an echoey refectory hall, a dozen or so pages of parchment and vellum were arrayed across wooden tables. There were treatises in Latin and Majorcan Arabic, and an enormous Ottoman-era decree, crowned with the gleaming gold calligraphic tughra of the sultan; another bore the signature of a 12th-century pope.
“But when I spoke to my brother, he said, ‘If you’re serious about a palazzo here, go look at . It’s the only one worth having.’” Six years and a ruthlessly meticulous restoration later, Palazzo Spinola gleams from its immaculate entrance-hall ceilings to the bronze coffee tables, designed by Osanna Visconti, in the sala blu, as the front sitting room is known.
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