The former backpacker haven has come of age, making it a top choice for families and couples seeking modern, affordable luxury
– about 60 per cent lower than in the UK. And unusually, sterling has held up relatively well against the baht.
It’s dusk when I arrive at Fisherman’s Village in Bo Put, and already lanterns are beginning to twinkle along the shoreline, complementing the rose-hued sky behind them. Named after the migrant fishermen from southern China that were thought to be among Koh Samui’s first settlers, Fisherman’s Village still has a rustic feel, with narrow streets and wooden shophouses.
Perhaps that’s as much partying as I can take these days. While the proper hedonism hunters are bound for Koh Phangan, where buckets of booze, glo sticks and dance music have been the norm at full moon parties since the ’80s, I am heading south to Taling Ngam. Here,is all about understated, affordable chic, where rooms start at £100 – many of the rooms open on to private pools where you can have your breakfast floated in on a tray.
As night falls, a barbecue is lit and I feast on fresh squid and shrimp with green papaya salad, followed by mango sticky rice. After dinner, I stay on the beach for the fire show, flaming props whirling so close to the crowd I can smell the paraffin. Even when a volunteer is plucked from the crowd, chiffon dress billowing terrifyingly near the dancing flames, the performers are completely in control. To me, it feels like the perfect metaphor for the island.
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