Suzuki by Kengo Kuma launches at the Mondrian hotel in Singapore, serving sushi in a Japanese garden setting
Kengo Kuma has made his long-awaited Singaporean debut with Suzuki – a sushi bar, no less – and it’s a beauty. Located in a prime spot right by the entrance of the newly minted Mondrian on the edge of Chinatown, the bijou 22-seater is Kuma’s first commercial project in city-state, the Tokyo-based architect having previously designed some private residences there.
If the top notes of Kuma’s moodboard are stone and water, then his middle notes are washi paper, which clads the restaurant’s cupboards and the scrim for the private dining room, and bamboo, the latter harvested and cut in Kyoto, and then installed by local artisans on site.
The base note, and arguably the one that is designed to create the most lasting impression, is the L-shaped sushi counter, which is crafted from a solid piece of 150-year-old hinoki timber and lined with ‘NC’ chairs, which Kuma had designed for the café in Tokyo’s Nezu museum. Kuma was particularly insistent about using this wood, not least for its special connection to sushi bars. ‘It has a subtle perfume that creates a special harmony with fish.
All of which is to say that a meal at Suzuki is a multi-sensorial experience, with head chef and owner Suzuki Yuichiro gently teasing out seasonal flavours of seafood flown in four times a week from Japan – sea urchins from Hokkaido, tuna from Kyushu, and silver belt from Osaka – which he pairs with For Kuma – currently at work on the monumental Founders’ Memorial on Singapore’s Marina Bay – Suzuki is the synthesis of a life’s work in which simplicity is perfectly balanced with materiality.
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