Christmas gifting has never tasted better
If the cliché of the celebrated chef is of an effing and jeffing egomaniac with a simmering temper and a knife-edge personality disorder, then Jeremy Lee is the glorious exception.
Lee made his bones under Simon Hopkinson and Alastair Little, among the architects of the renaissance in modern British cooking. Alongside contemporaries such as Fergus Henderson, of St John, Lee takes as much credit as anyone for the extraordinary flourishing in our national cuisine over the past few decades.
He’s also a stylish and enthusiastic writer on food, as devotees of his column in the Guardian Weekend will remember. Like his cooking, Lee’s long awaited first book, the gorgeous, with photos by Elena Heatherwick and illustrations by John Broadley, is authoritative, substantial, witty, romantic, beautifully presented and completely moreish.It is as much indebted to Lee’s Dundee childhood as his years at the stove in smart Sassenach restaurants.
Those spoilt types, like me, who are fortunate enough to eat occasionally at Quo Vadis will turn immediately to pies , knowing that no one on Earth makes a better one, before checking the index for Lee’s smoked eel sandwich, for my money the greatest thing to appear on any menu since, yup, sliced bread.by Jeremy Lee is the cookbook of the year. If you know anyone at all who loves spending time in the kitchen, buy them this book.
Danmark Seneste Nyt, Danmark Overskrifter
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