Railway heritage meets fine dining in what could be the grandest hotel in the North

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Railway heritage meets fine dining in what could be the grandest hotel in the North
Danmark Seneste Nyt,Danmark Overskrifter
  • 📰 The Yorkshire Post
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A new restaurant has opened in York, and it's making waves

It was opened in 1906 as the headquarters for the North Eastern Railway, and these captains of transport and industry did not stint on space or eye-catching features. It's said that Horace Field, the building's architect, took inspiration from Sir Christopher Wren, with a nod to Hampton Court Palace's grand corridors and wide stone staircases. No wonder it was known as a"palace of business".

Now after a sympathetic redesign that pays homage to industrious pioneers of York, with art deco lighting and architectural designs of the hotel writ large on the walls above curved banquettes, it is a welcoming and intimate space where diners get the full attention of Ahmed and restaurant manager Derek Scaife, whose skills as a sommelier are clever and bold.Ahmed rose to head chef through stints at York favourite Skosh, Yorebridge House in the Dales and stages at Lucknam Park and Whatley Manor.

The fish course is a dense but sweet halibut with the lightest mousseline sauce followed by a tender trio of Yorkshire lamb from a local farm. When the desserts and cheese plate roll round, we are reunited with our friends, the rooftop bees. Lush honey ice cream and panna cotta are served with zings of yuzu and elderflower to balance out that home-harvested sweetness.

The Grand also offers stargazing trips to the North York Moors with an astronomer on hand to share with you the wonders of the dark skies.For those who would rather spend their evenings indoors, there are a choice of rooms and suites, including the penthouse, arranged to celebrate the quirkiness of the old offices including beds on mezzanine platforms. Interconnecting rooms make spaces big enough family groups, too.

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