‘Even a hedge fund manager in an advanced state of refreshment would spot this as a massive, cynical waste of money’
n a hangar-sized yet semi-deserted Batman-themed restaurant, a letter is placed on my table while I await a £15 serving of citrus-cured salmon with a fingernail-sized portion of caviar. “Dear Guest of Park Row,” it reads, “I do fear the worst has come to pass.” It was a tiny touch of drama in a supposedly Gotham-styled dining experience, but its message was not wrong: the worst had indeed come to pass.
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