'It’s a great location, a quiet retreat in the heart of the city but hidden from the noise and the bustle.'
My third visit was at the Owl’s new site at Lockside, on the towpath of the Leeds and Liverpool canal in the regenerated Mustard Wharf. It’s a big, cool, contemporary space – you know the style, polished concrete, wooden tables, Scandi chairs and dozens of their trademark cane lampshades. If it wasn’t raining, we’d be taking an aperitif outside on the towpath.It’s a great location, a quiet retreat in the heart of the city but hidden from the noise and the bustle.
We begin with delightful snacks: a teeny, salty broth with seaweed and almonds and a tart of goat’s cheese and beef along with fine-looking bread rolls, made shiny with a malt extract glaze. A choice of four starters brings us a salad of tomato and goat’s cheese and if you think you’ve seen that before, try Owens’s take on it.
But then Owens tears up the rule book with a slab of rye cake – a sort of Yorkshire parkin flavoured with Guinness, mace and fennel, then topped with Yorkshire honey, summer truffle and a perfectly ripe slice of Tunworth cheese oozing over the cake like Vesuvius. It leaves us all deliberating whether it is dessert or cheese, sweet or savoury. The answer is both. And do we like it? Too rich for one and too heavy for another, but for anyone like me who loves a sweet/savoury combo, it succeeds.
Danmark Seneste Nyt, Danmark Overskrifter
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