After the rent on her London home was increased by 30%, Laura Millar decided to try Albania In a month Millar estimated that, including eating out and accommodation, they spent about a third less than they would have in London paying higher rent
Stuff was put into storage as we sketched out a journey that would see us flying into Tirana, then heading to the Unesco World Heritage towns of Berat and Gjirokaster, as well as some time on the increasingly-popular Albanian Riviera, stopping off at the coastal resorts of Vlore, Radhime and Ksamil.
For us, Tirana was a good place to understand some of Albania’s more recent past; you can visit two of the estimated 750,000 underground bunkers Hoxha had built around the country, paranoid about nuclear attacks. They are now preserved as museums , where you can learn about everything from Hoxha’s secret police to how his regime ended. Bunk’art 2 is smaller, and located behind Tirana’s magnificent, sweeping Skanderbeg Square, but we hopped on a bus to Bunk’art 1, 20 minutes from the centre.
Travelling to Berat from Tirana, a 90-minute journey, cost only AL500 each, while the bus from coastal Vlore to inland, hilltop Gjirokaster, a three-hour drive, was AL700 . Both of these towns absolutely merit their Unesco heritage status. Berat is composed of rows and rows of wide, flat-roofed, multi-windowed Ottoman-era houses, layered along the hills through which the Osumi river flows.th
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