'I found some of Manchester's most exciting food in a backstreet café with a wonky roof'
A word of warning to start with. On a Tuesday lunchtime last week, Papa Don was full, not a single spare table going, always a good sign. So if you’re planning to go, and you really should, maybe see if you can book first because the other options nearby are pretty scarce, unless you like bog standard fried chicken or the type of pizza that tastes like cheese and tomato have been melted onto a car wash sponge .
Anyway, that’s the background. On paper, the menu looks like nothing too exciting, stuff you’d see in plenty of other places - a Pad Thai, salt and pepper chicken wings, tom yum soup, various fried rice dishes. It’s a bit underwhelming even. ‘Thai street braised pork rice’ doesn’t sound like much. But it is. A generous hunk of cured pork, almost like gammon, that’s been braised low and slow in a dark, sticky aniseed broth. It falls to pieces at a glance. The dipping sauce it comes with is sharp and fragrant and just thinking about it again makes me want to jump in the car and tear down Chester Road.
Danmark Seneste Nyt, Danmark Overskrifter
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