Memo from the Paris runways: it’s time to smudge things up a bit...
: deconstructed. “We have created a deconstructed eye – something between a smoky eye and an eyeliner,” he tells me backstage at the French fashion house’s autumn/winter 2023 show. “It’s a strong look – up close it looks beautiful, but it is also visible from far away, which was essential, because the catwalk is huge.
Taking inspiration from strong French women in the ’50s and ’60s – underground French singer and actress, Juliette Gréco, a regular on the bohemian scene in Saint-Germain-de-Pres, was a key muse – Philips wanted to evoke the “melancholic mood” of the time via the eye make-up. “This look is not a literal interpretation of how the make-up was worn in those days, but more about the feel of the time,” he says. “It’s melancholic, a bit nostalgic and sad, just like Saint-Germain in the ’60s.
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