A rich and creamy omelette is a test of a young chef's ability in French kitchens. Yves Camdeborde shares his story behind the illustrious dish, and best practices for making it.
Of course, his mastery of the dish was no fluke. At 14, in south-western France, the Pau native had begun his apprenticeship at a local bistro where omelettes were the house specialty.
Only once the fat is rendered, he cautioned, should the eggs be broken."Once you crack them," he said,"they liquify and lose their structure." "When an egg cooks too much, it loses its creaminess," he explained. And so, it was atop still runny eggs that he scattered the filling – in this case, crisp charcuterie and a handful of coriander – before the most technical step: rolling.
Modern Parisian menus are perceptively devoid of omelettes; many chefs, Camdeborde mused, find the dish too"banal". To his mind, however, an omelette is as happy on gingham as linen, as well-accompanied by"caviar as a bit of lard".
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