“This couture collection was a measure of Gvasalia’s defiance of Cristóbal Balenciaga,” writes Alexander Fury
What Gvasalia did, cleverly, was to remember that past, respect it, but never allow it to become an albatross. Considering it is probably the weightiest legacy in fashion, that in itself is a tour de force. But Gvasalia did more. He reactivated Balenciaga’s couture for now, retaining elements of the house’s history yet evolving them, avoiding pastiche or retro. That’s not to say this felt detached from heritage: Balenciaga-isms were rife.
Those reminded me of a Pauline de Rothschild quote: “A woman walking would displace the air so that her skirt would billow out just so much, front, back and sides would round out each in turn, imperceptibly, like a sea-swell … Nothing held them out, neither whalebone cages nor petticoats gave them any support. Legs moved easily, the front of the long skirt running a little faster ahead than one’s walk.” These clothes had a similar sense of lightness, of shapes created around the body.
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