In an excerpt from a new book, Alexander Fury delves into Burberry’s synonymous relationship with Britishnessness, from the iconic Burberry Check to the indelible legacy of punk
Photography by Kristin-Lee Moolman, Styling by Ib Kamara © Kristin-Lee Moolmanby Alexander Fury, which is published by Assouline and is out on March 28.The clothes ofare intrinsically tied with the history of Britishness, as perceived in the popular consciousness – in actual fact, they are woven into British identity,
Britishness also embraces its own clichés – Burberry’s focus on the weather, on weatherproofing, seems engineered with a wry nod to the notoriously inclement climes of the British Isles, and the British propensity for discussing them.1999 campaign“I think any national identity is hugely determined by landscape,” says Professor Amy de la Haye, Rootstein Hopkins Chair of Dress History and Curatorship, and Joint Director of the Research Centre for Fashion Curation at London College of Fashion.
Britishness is about far more than surface, especially in clothes – it isn’t just in the cut of a tailored suit, the zips and raw-edged rifts of punk, or the practical yet polished look of a trench coat, but also in the thought processes behind both their creation and their wearing. These ideas chime with those of Thomas Burberry and were reflected from the very start in his company: in 1863, at the age of 28, Thomas took on a voluntary position assuming responsibility for the funding of the poor in Basingstoke, and throughout his life he was markedly altruistic, welcoming those in need of food and drink into his home.
“My partnership with Burberry was built from our aligned vision to progress work in the community and offer opportunity to those in underserved areas,”
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