The role of creative director has always been critically important to fashion houses. But whereas its occupants used primarily to act as guardians of a brand’s image, now they are artistic visionaries with the freedom to redefine it
Save time by listening to our audio articles as you multitaskThis tug of war between tradition and novelty is nothing new in luxury fashion. It is now becoming true of its makers’ business models, too. A post-pandemic rebound in sales of personal luxury goods, to nearly €300bn , conceals rising volatility within the industry.
The luxury groups are eyeing other underexplored places, from Nigeria and South Africa to India and Indonesia, albeit tentatively for now. In a more profound shift, they are increasingly thinking of markets in terms of cities rather than countries, says Anita Balchandani of McKinsey, a consultancy. In March Gucci opened a boutique in Austin, full of rich techies who during the pandemic left nannyish California for less locked-down, lower-tax Texas.
This is leading labels to redefine the role of the creative director. The position has always been critically important to fashion houses. But whereas its occupants used primarily to act as guardians of a brand’s image, now they are artistic visionaries with the freedom to redefine it. Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s creative director since 2015, has made the 101-year-old label synonymous with his signature animal and jungle motifs.
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