“You want people to feel something, even if they don’t like it. I think it’s important to have a strong emotion about something”
is a sucker for contradictions. Intrigued by the liminal spaces between chaos and control, isolation and community, and freedom and restriction, Green’s tough, avant-garde sculptural pieces are offset by the softer, puffier quilted jackets and blankets that have made him one of the most acclaimed menswear designers not just in London – where he hails from – but in the world.
His Spring/Summer 2023 show, held at Musée de l’Homme [Museum of Man] in Paris last weekend was, as usual, about contradictions. A characteristically colourful collection that drew on things as varied as myth, neoclassical pottery, and World War II dust covers, the show’s message was one of self-improvement – or, as Green puts it, it was about the gap between who you are and who you grow up to become.
In today’s rabid cultural landscape of wellness and self-help – which favours the less-is-more approach of Marie Kondo decluttering, or coma-like sensory-deprivation tanks – Green settled on a more old-fashioned, dowdy notion of betterment: decoration. “When you decorate something, it’s almost like you’re trying to make something better than it is,” he says.
“The collection started with an image of the most decorated man; the man with the most war medals and awards. I thought there was something interesting about that, like the term ‘a decorated man’. When you decorate something, it’s almost like you’re trying to make something better than it is. It started from that idea, and then when we found the venue, The Museum of Man [Musée de l'Homme], which helped to start to inform the collection as well.
“The first part of the collection was almost like we were trying to make a man that was useful, or more useful than a normal guy. We moulded leather saddles or motorbike seats – they also had stirrups and the backs of them resembled ladders – so you could use them to ride, or go somewhere, or use them to climb to get to where you want to be.
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