Mary Cleary is the Beauty & Grooming Editor of Wallpaper*. Having been with the brand since 2017, she became an editor in February 2020 with the launch of the brand’s new beauty & grooming channel.
Daniel Humm is not the person you would expect to be making pastel paintings of tofu and radishes. He has a stressful job as the head chef and owner of Eleven Madison Park, New York, named the best restaurant in the world in 2017, which has become even more stressful in the past few years.
But it was also one of the most valuable lessons Humm ever received. ‘The experience was gold. I felt like it gave me superpowers because I had to become OK with having nothing. From a starting point of zero, the decision didn’t feel that scary. Outside the pandemic, the restaurant is in motion, we have 300 people working here, and we have a responsibility to our team and our vendors. So from that place, it would have never, ever, ever been possible to go plant-based.
Humm is telling me all this as we sit in the Eleven Madison Park bar, a snug alcove off of the main dining room. I arrive right before service begins and watch a huddle of staff in matching uniforms stand by the cathedral-like windows and chant in unison, revving themselves up for the evening’s performance. It’s not a metaphorical stretch to say Eleven Madison Park is a temple for a certain culinary sect . And as with any creed, change is difficult for its followers to accept.
‘We need to eat more plant-based foods. I'm not saying that everyone, every day needs to eat plant-based but we need to reduce . We’re just running out of resources. Americans eat an average of 285 pounds of meat every year – that’s almost a pound of meat a day. It’s impossible to have quality meat at that rate of consumption.
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