Chanel translates Gabrielle Chanel’s love of tweed into exquisite high jewellery
Couture codes shape the just-unveiled collection of Chanel high jewellery, with this year’s ‘Tweed de Chanel’ pieces nodding to Gabrielle Chanel’s fascination with the rich material.
This collection marks the second time director of the Chanel Fine Jewellery Creation Studio, Patrice Leguéreau, has been inspired by the collection, after the unveiling of 45 high jewellery pieces in 2020. Now, Leguéreau returns to tweed with 63 creations encompassing the rich craftsmanship of the material.‘I really wanted to push the concept further, to carve out a definitive place for this exceptional fabric in the Patrimoine of High Jewelry,’ he says.
The collection is divided into five families of pieces, each of which nods to distinctive Chanel motifs: the ribbon, the camellia, the star, the sun and the lion. ‘The first of these, “Ribbon”, celebrates lightness, flexibility, movement and curves, using white materials including pearls, diamonds and white gold,’ Leguéreau says. ‘“Camellia” unfurls into a joyous, rose-tinted world of sapphires and spinels.
Necklaces and sautoirs, bracelets, brooches, rings and earrings draw these familiar design codes in new tweed jewellery-weaves studded with rainbows of precious stones, with precious metals intricately interwoven for light and supple high jewellery. ‘Each collection required extraordinary feats on the technical level,’ says Leguéreau. ‘You can't imagine the ingenuity and inventiveness deployed by the craftspeople in our workshops in reproducing the flexibility and fluidity of the fabric using metal and precious stones! It was a real challenge at times, but our jewellers and gem-setters are hugely skilled at giving truthful expression to creative ideas through finding technical solutions.
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