How to mug it and the latest in plant-based gâteaux
Food & DrinkI am currently engaged in my favourite pastime – watching someone else bake a cake that I get to eat. Harrods’ head pastry chef Philip Khoury is making his two-tone chocolate cake, a recipe using simple ingredients that is nonetheless radical because it contains no eggs or dairy and no unnecessary substitutes.
Khoury grew up in Sydney and trained at the award-winning Quay under chef Peter Gilmore before becoming Australian pâtissier Adriano Zumbo’s right hand. He joined Harrods in October 2018, noticed how few plant-based options there were and started developing his own. “Sometimes you have to bring an idea to life so people can taste it first,” he says. “I’d only reveal the bake was plant-based after the tasting was done and the product signed off.
Khoury’s solutions include using “tangzhong” cooked flour and sweet potato to make brioche. Both ingredients add moisture to make the dough pliable, while sweet potato recreates the buttery fragrance and golden hue we expect. He employs a “syrup method” to make biscuits; coconut oil and soya milk to produce whipping cream; and reinvents everything from banoffee pie to Victoria sponge.FT Weekend Festival returns on Saturday September 2 at Kenwood House Gardens, London.
“There is a huge demand for products that are plant-based but very few plant-based recipes use pantry staples,” says Khoury. “People end up using inferior substitutes like egg replacers. This is about stripping it back to basics in recipes that get results. It’s also for everyone else to have more options. There are plenty of plant-based ingredients that deliver a great bake.”Another book promises baking solutions of an entirely different kind.
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