Jonathan Anderson’s Spring/Summer 2023 Loewe show was a comment on our inability to define what’s real and counterfeit, writes Alexander Fury
Those flowers were fake, but hyperreal – and reality was what Anderson was after this time, after a couple of seasons toying with the surreality of women dressed as a pair of lips, or with body parts apparently chased in hammered metal. By contrast, even super-sized, those flowers looked real, and so did the clothes, baby-doll silhouette dresses and coats, giant-scale sweaters and shirts worn as dresses, a trio of soft gowns tied sweetly with velvet bows in front.
It felt like a meta comment on our culture today, on our inability to define what’s real and counterfeit.the Surrealists would doubtless appreciate – about Anderson’s play with the proportion of accessories and adornment, like the trailing shirts and sweatshirts arresting the eye, disturbing the peace. “There always has to be something for me that’s slightly knife-edge,” said Anderson. “An uncomfortable-ness.” The shoes made me feel uncomfortable, tufted as several were with deflated balloons to appear like some form of sea creature, or perhaps a porous growth.
that feels like Anderson’s remit, even at Loewe – bold new ideas, presented with a bluntness, to shock us into something new.
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