Maria Grazia Chiuri turned to the ’50s for inspiration.
While the idea of reduction is always relative in high fashion, the season has so far seemed like a dialled-down proposal for our autumn/winter 2023 wardrobe. It was true for Milan’s endless parade of demure grey coats that felt ever so appropriate for the spirit of the times. Opening the Paris shows, Maria Grazia Chiuri cemented that sensibility in a largely black and white Dior collection that drew parallels to another time of existential fashion reflections.
Evading the Hollywood idea of the ’50s as an era of glamour and optimism, Chiuri instead focused on the zeitgeist that would actually have surrounded Christian Dior in post-war Paris. “The reality in France – as in Italy – was a moment of existentialism. Europe was poor. I wanted to reflect on that because it’s so close to the history of the house and the women who were around Mr Dior,” she said.
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